Custom Bandhani Developed on Heavyweight Khadi
modern bandhani saree
Development for the preview collection and F/W 26 started with an examination of the centuries old craft of Bandhej and its practical evolution over time. Secondary sources of historical recordings, custom tie development with artisans in Jodhpur, and close inspection of commercial patterns found in saree’s, dupattas and modern iterations of the craft, helped develop a keen understanding of the importance and relevance of the textile as a contemporary touchstone for Rajasthan, festering a deeper curiosity towards innovative, modern applications.
bandhani/leheriya Development Process
custom tie before the knot is opened
cluster study of micro-bandhani
cluster study of a traditional Bandhej saree
(focus on the slight imperfections of each tie)
Over the last many decades, the pattern’s widespread appeal has distorted the artisanship associated with the craft, resulting in an increase in digital trope l’oeil prints, stripping the textile of its character-building imperfections and irregularities.
A recurring theme throughout research and development was to experiment with the boundaries and perception of traditional craft practices, re-contextualising iconic, nuanced artforms, while keeping artisanship alive. Through the process of cross examining the digital print against the laborious process of bandhani, came the satirical reframing of the digital reproductions.
digital print reproduction
bandhej patchwork experimentation
Bandhani Trompe L’oeil has existed for centuries, evidence shows that excavations as old as the 15th century in Fostat in Egypt, include Bandhani Pattern imitations with printing blocks. The idea of a reverse-color resist, on pre-dyed fabric was ideated and experimented through various mediums of embroidery, and careful placement throughout the garments.
seed bead, pearl, french knot,
metallic thread,
long, short and 3D aari embroidery.
experimentation to
achieve bandhej look
embroidery layout
